Last night we had steak and summer squash on the grill, salad, and a rare treat that I love in the summer: skillet-fried potatoes. I had already minced the fresh rosemary and garlic, and had just drained two pounds of diced, parboiled potatoes when I remembered something that filled me with joy and anticipation: I have a quart of home-rendered duck fat in the back of my fridge!
Sometime last year, I forget exactly when, I bought two frozen ducks at the grocery store. Hannah had recently discovered that duck meat makes fantastic enchiladas, and I thought I might make some duck enchiladas of my own. After I thawed them, I cut the breast meat off and made it into cutlets -- that was enough for us to have one meal of sautéed duck breast -- and then I carefully trimmed off most of the rest of the skin and fat, transferring it to a large sauce pan. I left a bit of skin on the carcasses to keep them moist, and roasted them in a low oven; later, I would pick the meat off the carcasses and turn them into enchiladas (indeed, as tasty as Hannah had promised), and then, of course, the bones went into my next pot of meat stock.
But while those ducks roasted in my oven, I heated the skin and fat trimmings in the saucepan. Slowly the fat melted and the skin began to frizzle and crisp. I checked on it now and then as I went about my day's work. After a while I had a pan full of hot fat and, after I strained it, some lovely duck cracklings.
I wish I could say that I saved the cracklings for a rich salad topping, but, um, I salted and ate a sizable portion of them right there, and the rest of them the next day.
There was more than a quart of fat from those two ducks. Duck fat is lovely, luxurious stuff, and this had a very clean smell and feel, not vaguely porky like the natural lard I sometimes use in my pie crusts. I used some of it in stir-fries for a few days, but then it wandered back to the back of my fridge where I forgot about it.
Until last night, when I used about a half cup of it to fry two pounds of potatoes with garlic and rosemary. They were a revelation. I gave myself one generous helping and was immensely satisfied -- these are potatoes worth eating. Maybe even potatoes worth rendering two ducks for.
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